Because Hawaii is so far away from Cheshire, I wanted to break up the long journey home. And where better to do so than a city I've long wanted to discover, San Francisco? The city by the bay did more than live up to expectations. It's now my favourite American city. I may not quite have left my heart there, but I found it quite enthralling.
It's a city with strong crime fiction associations. Laurie R. King lives there, and she gave me a few tips about places to visit. I was fascinated by my first glimpse of Alcatraz, scene of some notable movies. I suppose, though, that I associate San Francisco most closely with two films. First,
Bullitt, the private eye film legendary for its car chase. And second,
Vertigo, one of the best crime films ever made; I've seen it four or five times. And of course the full list of famous films set there is lengthy.
I'm often teased for my unashamedly touristy devotion to hop-on, hop-off buses, but I'm unrepentant: they make a very good way to get one's bearings in an unfamiliar place, and my first aim was to do just that. After riding around the city, the next step was to explore Fisherman's Wharf, and Pier 39 (I hadn't expected to see large numbers of sea lions right next to it) and take a ride on one of the famous cable cars, which I loved. Then there was a night bus tour, a chance to see both the Golden Gate Bridge and the Bay Bridge lit up against the night sky. All very memorable.
Next came a trip to Sausalito, an appealing little town with a Riviera-like atmosphere. From there we took the ferry across the bay, past the Golden Gate Bridge, past Alcatraz and back to the ferry terminal. And in the terminal building, while having a snack, I spotted a bookshop called Book Passage. Unable to resist, I had a look inside and to my amazement found two of the anthologies I've edited for the British Library. Quite a treat.
Further exploration followed - the "Crookedest Street", which is unlike anything I've ever seen - Chinatown, Japantown, and the Painted Ladies (the latter a group of houses on Alamo Square). My plan now is to read some more crime fiction set in San Francisco. I'm familiar with Laurie's books - any other recommendations?.
12 comments:
Sounds like a brilliant trip! You've probably already read them, but the two San Francisco set crime novels which immediately come to mind are Lenore Glen Offord's My True Love Lies (1947) and John Mersereau's Murder Loves Company (1940).
Might as well start at the top, with The Maltese Falcon, and Hammett's Continental Op stories. For contemporary authors, Bill Pronzini's "Nameless" series. For a sleeper crime film, check out Don Siegel's The Lineup, a b&w tour of San Francisco in 1958.
May I suggest the "Nameless P.I." books of Bill Pronzini? He's been writing about San Francisco for decades, and his investigator is not some superhuman fighting machine, just persistent and intelligent.
Dare I suggest... the Maltese Falcon? :)
Alcatraz has an important part in the other great San Francisco crime film, 'Point Blank'.
Kate, thanks. I don't actually know those books, so glad to have my attention drawn to them
Thanks, Art. I like Siegel's work but don't know that film. Will check it out
Anon, you are quite right to remind me. A terrific film.
Graham thanks. I've not read much Pronzini, but I love Gun in Cheek and its sequel.
Evelyn, you certainly dare! Thanks.
Martin, I hope I'm not leaving this twice. Sorry if so. I live in Berkeley, that's my only claim to relevance to this entry. I just finished Neck and Neck by Leo Bruce. It has the same plot as Strangers on a Train. They came out the same exact year. Do you know how this happened? I adore him, he wrote a book called The Man in Europe Street which was important to me tho I didn't know it was him for years, and also, because in one of the Deene books he has a really nervous tongue tied man say suddenly, "Boys! Don't forget! Thursday is Baked Potato Night!"
Hello Ginger. I must admit I've never heard of Neck and Neck, but your question is intriguing. I shall try to investigate...
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